Vietnam

Vietnam is one of Southeast Asia’s most rewarding destinations — 3,000km of coastline, a UNESCO world heritage town in Hội An, extraordinary cuisine that varies dramatically between north and south, the spectacular Ha Long Bay limestone karsts, the ancient imperial capital of Huế, and a warmth and resilience in its people that makes the country immediately likeable despite its difficult 20th-century history.

Vietnam’s climate varies by region. Hanoi and the north: October–April is best. Hội An and central Vietnam: February–August; avoid October–November (typhoon season). Hồ Chí Minh City and the south: November–April (dry season). Ha Long Bay: October–April for clearest skies.

Vietnam Airlines, VietJet and Bamboo Airways serve the main domestic routes efficiently and cheaply — book internal flights ahead. The Reunification Express train from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City: the Da Nẵng–Huế section is one of Asia’s great railway journeys. Grab is reliable throughout the country.

Classic itinerary: Hanoi (3 nights), Ha Long Bay overnight cruise (2 nights on a traditional junk), Hội An (3–4 nights, the most beautiful town in Southeast Asia), Ho Chí Minh City (2–3 nights). The French colonial Old Quarter hotels in Hanoi and the riverside boutique hotels of Hội An are both excellent.

Ha Long Bay overnight cruise: 1,600 limestone islands rising from jade-green water. Book a high-quality cruise (Paradise Elegance, Indochine Sails) for better food, fewer passengers and access to quieter areas.
Hội An Ancient Town at dawn: The best-preserved trading port in Southeast Asia. Walk the Thu Bồn riverside before 7am.
Mỹ Sơn Cham ruins (30 minutes from Hội An): 4th–13th century Hindu temples in a jungle valley. Go at opening (6:30am).
The Imperial City, Huế: Vietnam’s last imperial capital — the Citadel, the Royal Tombs and the Perfume River.
Cooking class in Hội An: Morning market at 7am then a four-course class — one of Southeast Asia’s great travel experiences.

Vietnamese food is extraordinary and entirely distinct between north and south. Hanoi: phở bò (beef noodle soup), bún chả (grilled pork with rice noodles). Hội An: Cao lầu, white rose dumplings, Mi Quảng. Ho Chí Minh City: bánh mì — the Vietnamese sandwich is one of the world’s finest street foods.

Vietnam is physically demanding in summer — heat and humidity throughout the south and centre. Plan outdoor sightseeing for 7–10am and 4–6pm. Ha Long Bay cruises in January–February can be cold and misty — bring a warm layer. Bring comprehensive travel insurance and any prescription medication needed.

Vietnam is very safe for tourists. Main caution: traffic — the motorbike density in Hanoi and Ho Chí Minh City is extraordinary. Cross roads slowly and steadily; the traffic flows around pedestrians. Bag snatching from motorbikes is the main risk in Ho Chí Minh City. Emergency: 113 (police), 115 (ambulance).

Ninh Binh (2 hours south of Hanoi): the ‘Halong Bay on land’ — limestone karsts rising from paddy fields and the ancient capital Hoa Lu — one of Vietnam’s most extraordinary landscapes with a fraction of Ha Long’s visitors.
The Central Highlands around Da Lat: Cool temperatures, French colonial architecture, coffee plantations and extraordinary waterfalls — a completely different Vietnam from the coast.
A cyclo ride through the Old Quarter in Hanoi at 6pm: The gentle pace of a cyclo allows you to absorb the extraordinary density and energy of Hanoi’s 36 guild streets at the finest hour of the day.