Tokyo, Japan

Tokyo is the world’s most extraordinary city — a megalopolis of 14 million that operates as a model of efficiency, safety and courtesy. It combines the ancient and the ultra-modern in ways that continually confound expectations: a Shinto shrine behind a skyscraper, a traditional craft workshop beside a neon arcade. Tokyo rewards patient exploration over organised sightseeing — the best experiences are found by walking slowly through Yanaka, Shimokitazawa or the backstreets of Ginza.

Cherry blossom (late March–early April): Shinjuku Gyoen and Ueno Park transform into pink clouds. October–November: Clear blue skies, comfortable temperatures, autumn foliage by mid-November. Avoid Golden Week (late April–early May) — domestic tourism fills every hotel. Summer (July–August) is intensely hot and humid.

Tokyo’s public transport is the finest in the world. The Suica or Pasmo IC card works on all trains, metro, buses and vending machines. Google Maps navigation is flawless. Taxis are excellent — expensive by Japanese standards but honest and navigation-equipped.

Shinjuku offers the best transport connections and extraordinary variety. Marunouchi/Tokyo Station area is prestigious, central and calm. Asakusa (east) is Tokyo’s most traditional neighbourhood — the great Senso-ji temple and craft shops.

Senso-ji Temple in Asakusa at 6am: Tokyo’s most important temple is magical in early morning light, almost empty before the craft shops open at 10am.
Tsukiji Outer Market at 7am: The finest fish market breakfast in the world — fresh sushi at standing counters.
Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden: Tokyo’s finest park — Japanese, French formal and English landscape gardens. Go early on a weekday.
teamLab Borderless (Toyosu): The world’s finest immersive digital art installation. Book well ahead.
The Ghibli Museum in Mitaka: Hayao Miyazaki’s extraordinary museum. Tickets sell out months in advance — book from the first release date.

Tokyo has more Michelin-starred restaurants than any city on earth — but the city’s greatest gift is the extraordinary standard of ordinary food. Ramen at a 10-seat counter at midnight; sushi at a basement bar where the chef has been perfecting nigiri for 40 years. Depachika (department store basement food halls) at Isetan or Takashimaya are extraordinary experiences.

Tokyo is exceptionally well-set-up for international visitors. English signage is comprehensive throughout the transport network. The summer heat and humidity require planning. Most major attractions have excellent accessibility. Comfortable shoes are essential — the city is enormous and walking distances are deceptive.

Tokyo is among the world’s safest cities. Crime affecting tourists is essentially unknown. Lost property is almost always returned. Emergency: 110 (police), 119 (ambulance).

Yanaka district: Tokyo’s most intact pre-war neighbourhood — temple graveyards, wooden craft workshops and the Yanaka Ginza shopping street at 9am.
Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building observation deck in Shinjuku: free, open until 10:30pm, with views of the city and (on clear days) Mount Fuji.
Shimokitazawa: Tokyo’s most creative neighbourhood — vintage clothing, live music venues and independent bookshops. Best on a Sunday afternoon.