New Zealand

New Zealand is the world’s most scenically varied country for its size — a pair of islands that contain fjords, glaciers, volcanic plateaux, subtropical bays, ancient rainforests, wine country and the world’s finest adventure activities within a geography that can be driven end-to-end in three days. For the seasoned traveller who moves at a civilised pace, New Zealand’s extraordinary landscape, outstanding food and wine, and the remarkable Maori cultural heritage make it one of the world’s most satisfying long-haul destinations.

Best months (Southern Hemisphere): December–March (summer). Long days, warm temperatures (22–28°C), all activities and attractions open. March–April (autumn) is superb — golden light, wine harvests in Marlborough and Hawke’s Bay, and dramatically fewer tourists than summer. June–August (winter): Queenstown and the South Island are cold but beautiful in snow; the North Island remains mild.

A hire car is essential for exploring either island independently. The roads are excellent and driving on the left is required. Internal flights (Air New Zealand) connect Auckland, Wellington, Christchurch and Queenstown efficiently. The Interislander or Bluebridge ferries between the North and South Islands (Wellington to Picton, 3 hours) are an excellent and scenic option with a car.

A classic New Zealand itinerary: Auckland (2 nights, gateway city and harbour), Northland / Bay of Islands (2 nights, subtropical beaches and history), Rotorua (2 nights, geothermal and Maori culture), Wellington (2 nights, the capital and Te Papa museum), then the South Island: Marlborough Sounds, Nelson / Abel Tasman, Queenstown and Fiordland. Allow 3 weeks minimum for both islands properly.

Milford Sound: The crown jewel of Fiordland — sheer cliff faces rising 1,200 metres from the water, waterfalls and dolphins. The overnight cruise with Mitre Peak Lodges is the finest way to experience it. Go in any weather — rain makes the waterfalls spectacular.
Te Papa Tongarewa museum, Wellington: New Zealand’s national museum and the finest Maori cultural institution in the world. Free; allow a full day.
A Maori cultural experience at Rotorua: A Tamaki Maori Village or Te Puia evening is a genuine and powerful introduction to Maori culture, language, dance and food (hangi, cooked in geothermal earth).
The Tongariro Alpine Crossing: Widely rated the finest one-day walk in the world — 19km across volcanic craters and past emerald lakes. Requires reasonable fitness and good weather.
Marlborough wine trail: Sauvignon Blanc at its world-defining finest, in the vineyards of the Wairau Valley. Cloudy Bay, Brancott Estate and Greywacke all offer outstanding cellar door experiences.

New Zealand’s food and wine scene has matured extraordinarily. Lamb (New Zealand rack of lamb is the finest in the world), green-lipped mussels, Bluff oysters (May–August), crayfish (lobster), manuka honey and exceptional dairy. The Hawke’s Bay and Central Otago wine regions offer outstanding Syrah and Pinot Noir respectively. Wellington’s Courtenay Place and the Wellington waterfront have the best restaurant density in the country.

New Zealand is inherently active but entirely manageable for the seasoned traveller who prefers a gentler pace. Most of the great scenic highlights (Milford Sound, the geothermal parks, the Marlborough Sounds) are accessible without strenuous walking. The roads are excellent and the driving is genuinely pleasurable. New Zealand’s healthcare is first-rate; the country is entirely English-speaking and extremely well-organised for international visitors.

New Zealand is one of the safest countries in the world for tourists. The main considerations are driving on the left (many international visitors are not accustomed to it) and the changeable weather in the mountains and fiords, which requires flexibility in planning. Emergency: 111.

The Otago Peninsula near Dunedin: the only place in the world where royal albatross nest on a mainland — the Taiaroa Head colony and the yellow-eyed penguin reserve are extraordinary wildlife experiences and rarely crowded.
The Forgotten World Highway (SH43, central North Island): a 150km gravel road through extraordinary volcanic landscapes, tunnels and ghost towns — one of New Zealand’s great overlooked drives.
A Doubtful Sound overnight cruise rather than Milford Sound: deeper into Fiordland, three times longer, with no day-tripper boats and extraordinary silence and wildlife — Fiordland at its most elemental.