Istanbul, Turkey

Istanbul is one of the world’s great cities — the only metropolis to span two continents, and the heir to both the Byzantine and Ottoman empires. The Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, the Grand Bazaar, the Topkapı Palace and the Bosphorus together constitute one of the most extraordinary concentrations of historical significance anywhere. Istanbul also lives vigorously in the present — its food culture, music scene and creative energy make it one of the most stimulating cities in the Mediterranean world.

Best months: April–May and September–October. Spring brings mild weather (18–22°C) and tulips in the parks. October is superb — warm, golden and beautifully lit. Summer (July–August): hot (32°C+) and very crowded at the main sites but the Bosphorus is at its most lively.

The metro, tram (T1 line along the historic peninsula) and funiculars are efficient. The Istanbulkart works on all public transport. Istanbul Airport: 45 minutes from the city centre by metro or Havaist bus.

Sultanahmet is steps from the Hagia Sophia — supremely convenient but very touristy. Beyoğlu / Galata (across the Golden Horn) is more cosmopolitan with excellent restaurants. Bosphorus-side neighbourhoods (Arnavutköy, Bebek) are quieter and more residential.

Hagia Sophia: One of the world’s three or four greatest buildings — now a mosque, open to non-Muslim visitors outside prayer times. Arrive at opening for the extraordinary interior light.
Topkapı Palace: The Harem section and the Treasury are extraordinary. Book ahead; allow a full morning.
Grand Bazaar at 10am: 4,000 shops in 61 covered streets — find the sections selling spices, lanterns and ceramics, not the carpet touts.
A Bosphorus ferry crossing: The public Şehir Hatlıları ferry from Eminönü to Kadıköy costs ₺4 and offers the finest view of the city skyline.
Chora Church (Kariye Camii): Byzantine mosaics of extraordinary quality in a small mosque near the old city walls — one of Istanbul’s great overlooked treasures.

Turkish food is magnificent. Beyoğlu has Istanbul’s most interesting restaurants; the Asian side (Kadıköy) is increasingly excellent and less touristy. Must-eat: meze at a meyhane (Turkish tavern) with rakı, fresh simit (sesame bread ring) at 8am, baklava from Hafız Mustafa (since 1864). The Spice Bazaar is one of the world’s great food markets.

Istanbul is a large and hilly city — the tram and funicular networks manage the main hills well. Summer heat requires planning; the Grand Bazaar and covered markets are naturally cooler. Carry a scarf or lightweight layer for mosque visits.

Istanbul is generally safe for tourists in the historic districts. Main cautions: taxi overcharging (use BiTaksi/Uber) and carpet shop high-pressure sales tactics. Exercise standard awareness in very crowded areas. Emergency: 112.

The Princes’ Islands (Adalar): Nine islands in the Sea of Marmara, 45 minutes by ferry. No cars; horse-drawn carriages and bicycles only. Büyükada (the largest) has Ottoman mansions and extraordinary quiet.
Kuzguncuk on the Asian side: the most charming neighbourhood in Istanbul — wooden houses, the oldest synagogue and a Greek Orthodox church, and not a tourist in sight.
A Turkish hammam at Çemberlitaş Hamanı (built 1584): the authentic bathhouse experience — köse scrub and foam massage is a genuine Istanbul institution.