Egypt

Egypt is the oldest continuous civilisation on earth — the Pyramids of Giza, the temples of Luxor and Karnak, the Abu Simbel rock temples and the Egyptian Museum contain artefacts from a society that flourished 5,000 years ago with a sophistication and grandeur that still defies easy comprehension. For the seasoned traveller, the scale and quality of what remains is even more extraordinary in person than in any photograph.

Best months: October–April. Egypt’s winter is genuinely pleasant — Cairo at 22–26°C, Luxor at 26–30°C. October–November offers excellent conditions and lower prices. Avoid May–September in Upper Egypt — temperatures at Luxor and Aswan regularly exceed 45°C, which makes extended outdoor temple visits genuinely dangerous.

Egypt Air and NileAir serve the Cairo–Luxor–Aswan route (1 hour, approximately £80). The overnight sleeper train from Cairo to Luxor (10 hours, comfortable) is one of Africa’s great rail journeys. A reputable Egyptian guide-and-driver for Luxor and Aswan is strongly recommended — the sites are complex and an expert guide transforms the experience. A Nile cruise between Luxor and Aswan (4–5 days) is the finest way to see Upper Egypt.

Cairo: The Mena House at Giza offers the extraordinary experience of breakfast with a direct view of the Pyramids. Luxor: The Winter Palace (open since 1886) is a classic. A Nile cruise between Luxor and Aswan is the finest accommodation choice for Upper Egypt.

The Pyramids of Giza at 8am: Arrive at opening, before the tour groups and heat build up. The interior of the Great Pyramid requires a separate ticket.
The Egyptian Museum, Cairo: 120,000 artefacts including the complete Tutankhamun treasure — reserve 4–5 hours. The new Grand Egyptian Museum (GEM) at Giza is now also open.
Karnak Temple Complex, Luxor: The largest religious building complex ever constructed — the Hypostyle Hall (134 columns, each 21 metres high) is one of the world’s great architectural experiences. Best at 6am.
Valley of the Kings: The royal tombs of the New Kingdom pharaohs. The tombs of Seti I and Ramesses VI are the most extraordinary.
Abu Simbel: Ramesses II’s rock-cut temples relocated by UNESCO in the 1960s. The façade at sunrise is one of the world’s great archaeological images.

Egyptian food is generous and flavourful. Kushari (lentils, rice, chickpeas, fried onions and tomato sauce) is Cairo’s great street dish. Grilled kofta and kebab are excellent throughout. The Winter Palace terrace in Luxor and the Old Cataract terrace in Aswan are magnificent venues for a sundowner.

Egyptian temple sites involve extensive walking on hot uneven stone with minimal shade — early morning visits (7–9am) are the only sensible approach between March and October. Carry at least 2 litres of water per person for any outdoor visit. A sun hat and high-factor sunscreen are essential.

Egypt’s main tourist destinations are very well managed for international visitors, with tourist police at every major site. Always use metered or hotel-arranged taxis. Exercise standard awareness in crowded areas and Cairo traffic. Emergency: 122 (police), 123 (ambulance).

The Sound and Light Show at Karnak Temple: An evening spectacle narrating the temple’s history as the monuments are illuminated — the scale of the Hypostyle Hall at night is extraordinary.
Luxor Temple at midnight (summer hours): The temple is lit at night and almost entirely empty after 10pm — one of Egypt’s most atmospheric experiences.
A felucca sail at sunset on the Nile at Aswan: The most ancient and peaceful way to experience the river — Nubian music, the desert light and the granite boulders of Elephantine Island from the water.