Buenos Aires, Argentina

Buenos Aires is the most European city in South America — grand boulevards, Art Nouveau architecture, extraordinary beef, passionate tango and a warmth that can seem almost overwhelming after the reserve of Northern European capitals. It offers culture, cuisine and urban spectacle at a quality matching the world’s great cities, at a fraction of the cost.

Best months: March–May (autumn) and September–November (spring). Buenos Aires’ seasons are the inverse of the Northern Hemisphere. Autumn (March–May) offers mild temperatures (18–25°C) and the city in its most relaxed mood. Spring brings jacaranda trees in bloom along the avenues. January–February: very hot and humid; many businesses close as portéños leave for the coast.

Buenos Aires’ Subte (metro) covers the central areas. Taxis are abundant, metered and affordable — frequently the most practical option for longer journeys. Ezeiza International Airport: 40 minutes by Tienda León bus (comfortable and straightforward).

Palermo (particularly Palermo Soho) is the most attractive neighbourhood for visitors — excellent restaurants, boutiques and parks. Recoleta is the most elegant and traditional — grand French-style architecture. San Telmo is the oldest neighbourhood — cobbled streets, antique markets and evening milongas.

Recoleta Cemetery: A city of marble mausoleums including Evita Perón — one of the world’s great cemeteries. A guided tour is recommended.
Teatro Colón: Consistently ranked among the world’s five greatest opera houses. The guided tour is excellent; a performance is transcendent. Book months ahead.
San Telmo Sunday Antiques Market: Buenos Aires’ most atmospheric market — antiques, tango performances and street food.
El Ateneo Grand Splendid bookshop: A 1919 theatre converted into a bookshop — named one of the world’s most beautiful.
A tango milonga: La Viruta or Salon Canning offer authentic evening social tango where watching is as pleasurable as dancing.

Buenos Aires is one of the world’s great cities for beef — an asado (Argentine barbecue) at a proper parrilla redefines what beef can be. Don Julio in Palermo and La Cabrera on Cabrera Street are both excellent and require advance booking. The city also has South America’s best empanadas and extraordinary dulce de leche.

Buenos Aires is a large, flat city and generally well-suited to the seasoned traveller. Embrace the Latin American schedule — restaurants fill from 9pm and the city operates several hours behind European rhythm. Currency arrangements require checking carefully — your hotel will advise on current best practice.

Buenos Aires is safe in the tourist neighbourhoods — Palermo, Recoleta and San Telmo are all fine for walking day and evening. Exercise normal urban awareness; phone snatching can occur in crowded areas. La Boca’s Caminito area is safe in daylight in the tourist zone. Emergency: 911.

MALBA (Museum of Latin American Art) in Palermo: one of Latin America’s finest art museums — Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera — free on Wednesdays.
A football match at La Bombonera (Boca Juniors): Argentine football is the most passionate in the world. Book through a reputable operator for a guided match experience.
Puerto Madero at sunset: The renovated waterfront district has Buenos Aires’ finest sunset views over the Río de la Plata.